(This article first appeared in the May print edition of the Hendersonian.)
There is an old saw about “travel” that kind of rings true.
It goes like this: “When you’re headed for heaven, you’ll have to go through Atlanta.”
Chances are if you’re headed out this vacation season on a trip that involves flying, you may very well indeed go through ATL, the Hartsfield-Jackson International Airport, a hub for Delta Airlines (one of the airlines serving Evansville Regional Airport).
You’ll be in good company. Just recently the Airports Council International (ACI) World reported that ATL’s 108 million domestic and international passenger in 2024 once again earned it the title of world’s busiest airport (for the 27th year. In 2020 during the pandemic there was a lapse when that distinction went to China’s Guangzhou Baiyun International Airport.)
It’s little wonder. ATL is within a two-hour flight of 80 percent of the United States.
The airport averages 286,000 passengers in a day and is the state of Georgia’s largest employer with 63,000 airline, ground transportation, concessionaire, security, federal government, City of Atlanta and airport tenant employees.
It’s essentially a city unto itself.
Most people are just passing through quickly, arriving on one of the 2,100 daily flights and trying to make a connection with more than 150 U.S. cities and 70 international cities in 43 different countries served by ATL.
But what happens if you miss that connection or have a longish layover and time to kill at ATL?
There are a lot of options, from shopping and dining to becoming more cultured, just like with most any city.
Because of its variety of food, the airport could be considered a culinary destination. There are 114 food and beverage outlets in the airport’s seven concourses, which are easily accessed by the underground Plane Train that operates 11 trains on a three-mile loop track that reach the concourse stations every two minutes.
If you need to stretch your legs you can certainly walk instead.
Restaurants most often recommended for higher-end dining are the twice-James Beard-nominated One Flew South on Concourse E, known for sushi, and the Atlanta Chophouse & Brewery on Concourse A.
But there’s really something for every taste, such as the Cuban-themed Papi’s Cuban Grill, Atlanta’s famous “drive-in” The Varsity, Varasano’s Pizzeria, PF Chang, Tacos & Tequila or the Atlanta Braves All-Star Grill.
You can get your morning bagel at Goldberg’s Fine Foods or have a diner experience at Sweet Georgia’s Juke Joint, and there are plenty of other casual dining and fast food options.
And, if you need a gift or souvenir to take with you on the next leg, a replacement cord missing from your electronics or something to read, the airport has 90 retail and convenience store outlets plus three duty-free shops. There’s a banking center, lots of ATMs and Georgia Lottery outlet.
When you’re worn out from all of that, there are also spas available.
But one of my favorite things about the airport is the museum of Atlanta history located in the underground walkway between Concourses B and C.
“A Walk Through Atlanta History” is a well-done timeline that chronicles the city’s history from the pre-colonial era to the 1996 Centennial Olympic Games. The exhibit features interactive elements, video, and archived photos and aerial shots.
In Concourse A there’s also an exhibit about the late Congressman and statesman John Lewis.
History enthusiasts can certainly kill some time in these areas.
So can art enthusiasts.
Following the 1996 Olympics, the city hired a small team to curate and grow ATL’s art collection, which started with 14 pieces when the airport opened in 1980 and now numbers more than 1,000.
It’s now one of the largest—and busiest—public art sites in the Southeast.
Think of it this way: Given the passenger traffic in the world’s busiest airport, an artwork in a prominent location could be seen by as many people in 10 days as it could be seen in New York City’s Museum of Modern Art in a year.
Or, in an average month, 8.7 million people move through ATL. In the entirety of 2023, The Louvre (the world’s business museum in Paris), had 8.9 million visitors.
One of the most prominent pieces is “Flight Paths” by Steve Waldeck installed in the ceiling between Concourses A and B, the largest piece of public art in Atlanta.
The “narrative forest” includes the sounds of native birds and crickets, thousands of aluminum panels and more than 25,000 LED lights. The installation has its own Instagram account devoted to travelers who make pilgrimages to see it.
A collection of Zimbabwean sculpture between Concourses T and A is one of the largest outside of the country.
The ATL Airport Art program introduces new artists and organizes rotating exhibits, permanent installations and special events.
So, the next time you’re traveling through ATL and find yourself with extra time on your hands, don’t grumble. Explore.