(This article first appeared in the June print edition of the Hendersonian.)
At Farmer & Frenchman Winery, at the end of the parking lot opposite the cafe, below the recently built yoga studio and within earshot of the geese and chickens in their runs, something is growing.
And growing.
And growing.
They are mushrooms that look like artwork, those lion’s mane, coral, oyster, black pearl, maitake, reishi and shiitake growths that the F&F farmer Katy Groves-Mussat said they added to their operation and restaurant resources a few months ago. F&F will also be selling their mushrooms at the Henderson Farmer’s Market this season
“We are always looking for ways to incorporate growing produce right on location for guests to experience the full cycle of seed-soil-plant-fruit right in front of their eyes and on their palates,” she said.
So in addition to using 100 percent of their own mushrooms in all of the restaurants items calling for them, Katy and employee Tommy Everhart periodically teach classes on mushrooms to others who may be interested in growing their own and they show off the process during tours of the mushroom house.
“We grow mushrooms because they are beautiful, sustainable and deeply connected to the natural world,” Katy added.
When the Henderson County native was working on her doctoral degree in anthropology, she also worked at an organic farm in Tuscaloosa, Ala., while doing dissertation research on urban farming.
“I had an interest in mushrooms and had heard about people growing their own ….,” she said, adding that she ordered a few grow kits but didn’t have much success with them.
Later, as they were starting the winery operation in Robards, she contacted University of Kentucky’s agriculture department for information on mushroom cultivation in Kentucky, but they didn’t have much research to offer.
She put her idea for a mushroom operation on the back burner.
Fast forward to meeting Tommy, who had started working at F&F as a line cook, and she learned that he was a hobbyist mushroom grower.
Soon his hobby turned into a profession as he set up commercial scale mushroom farms out west.
“(But) his family and soul are in Kentucky so after a couple of years, we were able to entice him to come back with the promise of setting up a mushroom farm at F&F under his direction,” she said.
That happened last year.
“We are thankful for Tommy’s passion and expertise on growing mushrooms and honored that we can give him the space to continue this unique crop specialization,” Katy said, adding that the farm will also construct a greenhouse this year so they can grow more produce year-round for the restaurant.
The plentifulness of mushrooms has been inspiring for the kitchen staff, she said.
“Their culinary technique is based in the quality and freshness of products so they have been really excited and inspired to use these beautiful fresh mushrooms. It’s been really cool,” Katy said. “Like all produce straight out of the garden, it’s the best for taste and prep.”
They quickly reach their goal (in December 2025) of supplying all mushroom needs for the restaurants, so now it’s on to the next step.
“We are currently expanding to grow for customers at the Farmers Market and by special order,” she said. “Right now you can submit an order online, walk in to F&F and order fresh mushrooms or you can find (our mushrooms) through Cates Farm at the Henderson Farmers Market.”
She said their current facility “can easily triple our output.”
For those who are not familiar with preparing mushrooms, she offers these ideas:
• Her favorite way to prepare them: Roughly chop; toss with olive oil, salt and pepper; sauté until golden. For extra crispiness, finish in a 400-degree oven until desire texture is reached.
• She suggests starting with the “fresh mix” of their mushrooms to find out your taste. Oysters are savory, Black Pearl are meaty with a rich umami flavor and Maitake are earthy, for example.
• The Reishi variety is traditionally medicinal and not eaten as a whole culinary mushroom. She said it is best used in broth or tea.
• The Shiitake is a savory and flavorful culinary staple, but it takes longer to reach maturity (about 90 days.) Their other varieties are ready in one to seven days.
• Many mushroom varieties are rich in antioxidants and support immune function.
So, a few years down the road from those failed grow kits, does she still think it’s challenging to grow mushrooms?
“Their growing techniques seemed so esoteric,” she said. “But now that I know more about it, it’s easy once we had set up the right environment for them to flourish.
“Knowing more about what it takes from spore to mycelium to mushroom it’s incredible that we can reproduce that environment,” she added. “When you see a mushroom in your yard, or the coveted fairy circle, know that the perfect combo of nutrients, temperature, humidity came together for a tiny miracle.”
The Henderson Farmers Market Association operates their market three days a week at Henderson County Fairgrounds on Sam Ball Way located at the intersection of Airline Road and Garden Mile Road. The market opens at 8 a.m. on Tuesdays, Fridays and Saturdays and most producers are typically in place by 9 a.m. and stay until they sell what they have for the day.
